Sunday, October 24, 2021

Obviously nothing beats polyhedrals. However, I think I've come up with a way to simulate 10 different die fairly well...with a deck of ONLY 7 cards!

"Impossible!", you say? Have a gander...





Lay the Rotate card down as shown (shuffle on the left side). Collect the other cards and lay them face down on the Rotate card. Take the deck in hand. To get a "die roll", turn the top card over, lay it down face up, and reference the desired die on the side closest to you (the side you can easily read). Repeat as die rolls are needed. When you reach the Rotate card, collect the discarded cards. Turn them face down and lay them on top of the Rotate card. Now rotate the deck clockwise one turn. You're ready to start drawing cards for die rolls again. Repeat this procedure until you encounter the Rotate card and the word Shuffle is on the side closest to you. Now it's time to Shuffle.

First, set the Rotate card aside as shown (shuffle on the left side). Collect the discarded cards that are face up. Take the top card off the deck, rotate it clockwise one turn, and lay it down. Take the bottom card from the deck and lay it down on top of the card you just laid down. Do not rotate the cards you draw from the bottom. Repeat this procedure until you have no more cards in hand. The cards are now shuffled and laying face up. Pick them up, turn them face down, and lay them on top of the Rotate card. You're ready to roll!



Monday, October 22, 2018

Paper Miniatures: The Plan is to Improvise

After becoming infatuated with the idea of using lego minifigs as miniatures, I was discouraged by their prices and availability. I then decided to design some paper minis in a lego minifig artstyle. After spending too much time looking for some already made and making nearly 10 different versions of goblins, orcs, bugbears, and minotaurs, I had had enough. I decided I would "just be normal" and find more realistic images on the web to incorporate into paper miniatures.

And there I was again. I can never find images/miniatures for everything I want that look the way I want. And creating them myself is such a hurdle/burden. I went back to the idea of creating lego minifig style art for paper minis again. It is a simple style not much more elaborate than stick-figures but they add enough color and flavor to satisfy my tastes. As I set out resolved to make scores of lego styled paper minis I decided to build myself a really nice template.

Then it hit me. Just print out a sheet of paper with a bunch of the templates on it and doodle in the details at the gaming table. Here is that template:


Download the "original size" pic, load it in MSPaint, and print at 100% scale. You'll get 20 one-inch figures on one piece of paper. Note, these are designed to be folded along the right side instead of the top. There are 5 figures (front/back) per row. Once you cut them out and fold them, wrap a piece of scotch tape around them to keep them folded. Then you can slip them over my "improvised paper pawns" or paper paper-mini stands. Here's the video for making those:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nPuvC2MWHs

Before you fold them and tape them, flesh them out. Doodle on them. Use pens, pencils, crayons, markers, etc. to customize the blank mini into a lego style portrait. Here's a couple of quick, improvised minis I made with only a blue pen, black pen, and a green highlighter on hand:


I think this will be easy, quick, and fun to do at the table on-the-fly. I think players will enjoy making minis for their PCs at the table as well. In fact, if the players encounter a party of orcs the task of creating the minis for those orcs can be delegated to the players. This would surely result in a variety of very interesting and distinctive orcs! Fun! Fun! Fun!

Update: I broke out my colored pencils and made a Kobold and a Bear!


Crap! I forgot the Kobold's tail! No problem. I'll just ink/pencil it in!

Monday, September 17, 2018

Diagonal Movement on Squares

In role-playing games, you often have miniatures or figures on a grid of squares. These figures are allowed to move so many squares in a turn. A problem arises when moving diagonally on a square grid. If you allow the same number of squares to be moved diagonally (NW, NE, SE, SW) as you do orthogonally (N, E, S, W), the figure can move a greater distance diagonally than orthogonally.

One of the oldest methods for preventing this was to say that each diagonal movement counted as 2 moves. I'll call this the "1/2 method". Of course, this drastically short-changes you on the distance you can move diagonally compared to the amount of distance you could travel if you did away with the grid and just measured the distance with a ruler or measuring tape. I'll call this the "measure method".

Another method was developed to minimize the difference between diagonal movement on grid and the "off-grid" measuring method. This method involved multiplying your normal maximum allowed moves (MA) in the orthogonal directions by 2. Each square you move in an orthogonal direction costs 2 moves. Each square you move in a diagonal direction costs 3 moves. I call this the "2/3 method". It is a nice method that prevents you from travelling farther diagonally than you would be able to travel in an orthogonal direction and it much more accurate than the "1/2 method". Of course, the most accurate method is "measured method" but the "2/3 method" is very close.

A close approximation to the "2/3 method" is what I call the "1-2 counting method". In this method, you don't multiply or change you MA. Instead, each square of movement in an orthogonal direction costs 1 movement unit (MU). When moving diagonally, the first square costs 1 MU but the second square costs 2 MU. The square after that costs 1 MU. The next costs 2 MU. Repeat. This is a very simple and easy to use method. Nothing wrong with it. Of course, some people may prefer to reverse the counting (i.e. 2 MU, 1 MU, 2MU, 1MU, etc.). That's fine too.

However, I decided to see if a "3/4 method" was acceptable. In this method, I multiply my MA by 3. Squares in the orthogonal directions costs 3 MU. Squares in the diagonal directions costs 4 MU. In general, this method results with a character being able to move one more square in the diagonal direction than "2/3 method". I liked this as I knew (through mathematics and geometry) that the "2/3 method" was and underestimate of the "measured method". I also knew that the "3/4 method" was an overestimate of the "measured method". Upon a closer look at the mathematics, I found that both methods were almost equally "off" from "measure method". My preference is to slightly overestimate the "measured method" than to slightly underestimate it.

Next, I decided to see if I could come up with a counting method like the "1-2 counting method" that would closely approximate the "3/4 method". I could! I call it the "1-1-2 counting method". Basically, all squares in a diagonal direction cost 1 MU except every third square. It costs 2 MU.

Below is a graph of that shows the results of the "2/3 method" (red/pink dots), the "3/4 method" (green squares), and the "measured method" (orange arcs).


UPDATE: I decided to "just be normal" and use the 2/3 method" for movement. The counting methods can lead to exploits (or errors) that grant too much or too little movement. The 1-2 counting method is great for weapon reach/range though.

Friday, December 1, 2017

My Favorite Video Games

I recently discovered the God of War series of games that came out on the PS2, PSP, and PS3. It's very rare that I love a video game this much, so I decided to keep a running list of my favorite video games. It's a short list. I'm very picky when it comes to video games. There may be other games that I've liked but these are games I like so much that I replay them on a regular basis.

Galaga (Arcade)
Rastan (Arcade)
The Legend of Zelda (NES)
The Legend of Zelda 2 (NES)
Castlevania II: Simon's Quest (NES)
Rygar (NES)
The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past (SNES)
Metroid (NES)
Super Metroid (SNES)
Metroid: Zero Mission (GBA)
Metroid Fusion (GBA)
AM2R (Another Metroid 2 Remake)
Star Wars Jedi Outcast (PC)
Star Wars Jedi Academy (PC)
God of War 1 (PS2>PS3)
God of War 2 (PS2>PS3)
God of War 3 (PS2>PS3)
God of War: Chains of Olympus (PSP>PS3)
God of War: Ghost of Sparta (PSP>PS3)

That's it. I expect I'll be adding GoW 2 and 3 to this list in a few months. I don't think I'll get into the reboot coming soon to PS4. I really love the ancient Greece mythological setting of GoW and the way they've presented. These games would make GREAT movies. They really capture the feel of old sword and sandal movies like Clash of the Titans while still adding some modern polish, more so than the rebooted Clash of the Titans and Conan movies. In fact, a bald-shaven Jason Momoa would make a fantastic Kratos.

UPDATE: Came here to add Simon's Quest to the list and added GoW 2 and 3 also. Ah, Simon's Quest. I had forgotten about this game. I had it or rented it or borrowed it at one point in the NES hey-days. I had long forgotten this. I now remember thinking that I would really like it if I just knew what I was supposed to do. I don't think I had a manual for it. It recently crossed my radar and thanks to the wonders of the internet, I now had "a manual". I just finished it for the first time and started playing it again. Love it!

Friday, January 20, 2017

Introducing the d6X System!

What is the d6X system? Simple. It's the d20 system played with only d6s and a few minor adjustments.

Label the faces of a d6 as: 0,2,6,8,12,14.





We'll call this special d6 the dX. If you roll the dX with a regular d6, you get results between 1 and 20. We'll call this a d6X roll. It's not completely linear but pretty darn close. All possible results have the same chance of occurring except for 1, 2, 19, and 20. Those numbers will occur half as many times as the other numbers.

Result/Probability
1 2.78
2 2.78
3 5.56
4 5.56
5 5.56
6 5.56
7 5.56
8 5.56
9 5.56
10 5.56
11 5.56
12 5.56
13 5.56
14 5.56
15 5.56
16 5.56
17 5.56
18 5.56
19 2.78
20 2.78

To simulate a d10, use the same dice as described above. When you get your result, ignore the ten's digit. You'll get a value between 0 and 9. This will be even closer to linear than the d20 results.

To simulate a d4, roll a d6 until you get a result less than 5 or use the same d20 method described above. A result of 1 to 5 = 1. 6 to 10 = 2. 11 to 15 = 3. 16 to 20 = 4. This has a little more curve to it than the previous method.

Of course, you can use the d10 method to roll on %d tables or the d20 method for d20 tables. If you want to make a table with more than 20 things on it but less than 100, you can make a d66 table. Roll d6 twice. The result of the first roll is the ten's digit. The result of the second roll is the one's digit. This will give you a table of 36 equally probable possibilities.

To simulate a d8, use the d10 method above. Re-roll results higher than 8.

To simulate a d12, roll d6X. if the value of the dX roll is 6 or less, add 6 to the d6 value. This is completely linear!

Saturday, November 12, 2016

A Very Simple Method for Random Dungeon Generation

I have decided that MoBaD (Maze of Blood and Death) - my homage to DeathMaze and Citadel of Blood - will not use a pre-generated map. I long ago decided against chits. Instead, MoBaD will have the player(s) randomly generate their dungeon layout on-the-fly in a manner similar to PocketDungeon. There will be a "mapping-grid". You'll start in a bottom corner and "build" the dungeon horizontally until you run out of room. Then you'll move up the grid. It's sort of like laying tetris bricks.



You build the rooms with "Room Blocks" - a column of 4 squares. You roll 1d6 to determine how many "room-blocks" you'll use to build the room. You have to place your room-blocks in-line with your current room. If you run out of room for the number of room-blocks you rolled, use the left-overs to build the next room up the grid.

I rolled 3 for room one. I rolled 5 for room 2. I rolled 1 for room three. I rolled 6 for room four. I rolled 2 for room 5. I rolled 2 again for room six but there wasn't enough space for a 2-block room. I made room 7 with the left-over block. Skipping ahead to room 12, I rolled 3. Again, not enough room for 3 blocks. Room 12 uses 2 of the 3 blocks I rolled. Room 13 is formed with the left-over block.

East/West door will always exist within the boundaries of the mapping-grid. Sometimes, there may be a north door. This is determined by rolls for "room features". There is always a north door where there is a gap in the black lines.

Thursday, October 20, 2016

Prison Dice

I read an interesting article about tabletop gaming in prison the other day. Since they couldn't have actual dice in prison, they made and used a spinner. Incredibly, I could not find one of these with google images, so I made one.
From inner-ring to outer-ring: d2, d3, d4, d6, d8, d12, d20. Why no d10? Use the d20 and ignore the tens digit.

In prison, they would draw this out on paper, paperboard, or cardboard. A paperclip was used as the spindle in the center. The empty, inner ink-tube of a pen was used as the needle. I have sized this image to fit onto a CD/DVD as I have some alternate ideas about having a fixed needle and spinning the wheel instead.